Wednesday, August 6, 2008

19 Part 2

Letter 19: Canada! 2
From the Traveling Harrington’s.
Please email Olivia@bobheck.com or fredharrington@yahoo.com with comments.

This picks up from Canada! 1 (look for Aug 3 on the right of the screen)

Sunwapta Falls tumble into a limestone gorge like Malign Canyon.

For other travelers, in the town of Jasper there are lots of B&B’s as well as nice hotels including the Jasper Lodge, we walked around in the main lodge and enjoyed seeing their menu. It is a beautiful place if you have lots of $$$.
Back to the campgrounds in Jasper National Park, firewood is included in the price of the spot. There is an area by the showers with lots of wood, already cut up, just help yourself. How nice! In the states the campground hosts are allowed to sell wood and it is usually $4-$6 a bundle – normally 5-6 split logs. They are not large enough for a decent campfire.

Thursday, July 24 found us traveling south on the Icefields Parkway. Beautiful beautiful, peak after peak after peak, glacier after glacier after glacier. This was certainly a dream come true for Olivia. During the drive, Fred commented, “you are quiet, are you climbing mountains?” The answer was “yes, trying to figure out how to get up them, they are so steep!”

We saw Mt Wooley
Mt Mushroom
Kitchner And Snow Dome with 300’ of ice on the top.
These mountains are not high in elevation but they are high from the bottom up.
Then stopped at the Alabasca Glacier which is only 2% of the Columbian Ice Field.
We took the ride on the ice fields and walked on the ice and even drank some of the ice cold clean glacial melt water. From the tram station to the bare glacier we traveled along a 150 yard stretch of 32% grade. Fred thought we were on an amusement ride! And we were!

Our guide and bus driver said they acquired their jobs on line! They are furnished room and board as well as a salary. They open April 1 and stay open until the snow gets too heavy.

South of the ice fields we saw
Snowbirds glaciers
Peyto Lake and Glacier
And Crowfoot Glacier which has lost one of the toes. There were many more mountains and glaciers, but we didn’t know the names.

We attempted to stay in Lake Louise and Kicking Horse Campground, but both were full so we stayed at Monarch Campground, 15 miles west of the town of Lake Louise. Later we found Lake Louise had an overflow campground a few miles away.

Friday, July 25 we drove into Lake Louise (the lake) and tried to beat the traffic to both
Lake Louise
And Moraine Lake which is much prettier than Lake Louise due to the 10 Peaks around the lake and the color of the water. Canada has put this scene on the back of their $20 bills. We climbed a rock pile to get the view of all these peaks.
We visited the town site of Lake Louise and attempted to use the internet, but all the town’s power was off! We had heard that a hurricane had hit Corpus Christi and were concerned about Teenya and family. While we waited for power we strolled through the shops and ran into two couples from Texas. One was from New Braunfels and the other from Victoria. They told us the hurricane went to Brownsville. We still waited for the internet, but it seemed hopeless so we drove back to the trailer stopping at the
Spiral tunnels rail way. We are camped not far from where the train track goes through tunnels that not only spiral but change in grade, so that when they come out they have either ascended or descended. There are two of these tunnels to help the trains go over Kicking Horse Pass. Teenya, we hope you remember seeing this. These tunnels cut the grade from over 4% to about 2%. According to the roadside information, 2% grade is maximum grade for trains. Before the tunnels, it took 14 engines to “pull” a 15 car train over the pass. Going down the steep side of the pass was deadly.

We have seen very few cars from the states. We guess the price of gas has scared them off. We do look forward to going back to $4 a gallon gas. We had been paying between $5.05 and $5.50 a gallon.

We called this a short sightseeing day and settled into the trailer about 3:00 pm.
Fred went out about 9:15 PM and saw the sunlight hitting the surrounding mountains. Keep in mind this was PM and there were two more hours of day light left.

Saturday, July 26 we moved to Banff by way of Johnson Canyon
This is a beautiful narrow canyon with
Hanging walkways
And beautiful waterfalls.

There is a lodge at this starting point that might not be in the major lists, for those of you looking for lodging in this area.

We arrived in Banff to lots of traffic! Yuck! We worked our way through town to the campgrounds. There were plenty of spaces - all parallel parking. Different! We chose to stay here two nights and let Fred recoup from a head cold. Banff has three huge campgrounds, one with full hookups, one with electricity and one with no hookups.

We chose the middle. All three of these campgrounds total over 1000 sites. Across HWY 1 are two more campgrounds and an overflow campground. They are prepared for travelers. Our campground has been mostly full both nights of this weekend. All of the campgrounds in Banff and Jasper National parks are NP campgrounds. There are no private trailer parks which is ok with us.

We were intrigued with the layout of this campground. The 50 foot wide paved road run the length of the hill with tables and electricity every 75 feet. These spots are marked off on the paving. Every one of them is the same. They do not have to worry about placing a camper in the appropriate size spot. Everyone parallel parks but there is plenty of space to maneuver.

On our travels we have noticed how much the traffic laws are the same as Texas and wonder if the National Transportation Department strongly suggests changes across the US and therefore the state legislators comply. Two we know are relatively new to Texas and are also in effect even in Canada are “Fines Double when workers are present” and ”Move over when passing flashing lights, PD cars.”

In the Banff area, wildlife was regularly killed on the highways and now there are fences to keep them off the busiest highways.

Sunday, July 27 we attended the
Rundle Memorial United Church of Canada. The church was established in 1927 as the first church built in Banff. The windows were awesome and we enjoyed their service.

Then we browsed one-half block of their 10-15 blocks of shops, where Olivia bought her Canadian souvenir, jade earrings of the Indian symbol for safe traveling called “Inukshuk” The traditional Inuit creations are made of massive rock slabs. They are used to guide the way of the traveler. Banff is much larger than Jasper and very much a tourist town. Prices start at moderate and go way up from there. They provide lots of free public parking yet it is hard to find a place to park.

We drove to the Banff Hotel and enjoyed the
beautiful view from the terrace.
That evening after a shower there was a beautiful vibrant rainbow. Olivia went out to take a picture and there were cameras everywhere.
We drove to Lake Minnewanka and on the way where we saw Elk grazing.

Muddie and Cecil, Olivia’s parents, have said since they were in the Canadian Rockies, “If you go to the Canadian Rockies and stop at Lake Louise, then you wasted your gas. Go all the way to Jasper and you have seen the Canadian Rockies.” We agree totally! Banff is beautiful and surrounded by mountains, quaint town and huge hotel along with other amenities. But the drive to Jasper is worth the whole trip from Texas. There are mountains on both sides, glaciers, beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. God really made a beautiful creation here.

Monday, July 28, we left Banff and drove to Canmore to get propane and groceries before heading off to more back country. We drove south on HWY 40 through the Kananaskis Country which was still Rocky Mountains and the beginning of the foothills.
We saw big Bhorn sheep grazing on the highway. Were they after salt? Many times we were warned of “Texas gates” which are cattle guards. Olivia thought that was cute and Fred wanted to know why we weren’t in Texas every time we crossed one. Then on to HWY 22 south. This country was rolling hills of cattle ranches and lush hay fields. We thought of our Texas friends when they can’t buy hay. They would be so envious of these fields. Some had hundreds of bales on the fresh cut hay. We figured we had a taste of Montana. This looks like Kansas only green.

We stopped for the night at the junction of Hwy 22 and Hwy 3 at Lundbreck Falls. This campground has just been converted into a provincial park and has electricity at some of the sites. We were fortunate to find a newly emptied electrical spot right on the river. We had Olivia’s favorite dinner of beans and cornbread (with bacon) for supper. Yum!
We walked to the waterfall. Fred says another damn waterfall! It seems we see nature in themes. First it was rocks, petroglyffs, beaches, mountains and waterfalls. They are all beautiful.

Everyday we have seen something different and beautiful in it’s on way.
We visited with very nice neighbors Brenda and Rob Roy Macgregor. He grew up in this area and is descended from the noted Rob Roy. Even though he is multiple generation Canadian, he is still Scottish through and through. They come here every year to fish. We shared their campfire and enjoyed their company until 10 pm! Late for us.

Alberta is a huge oil producing province. Some say its deposits are as large as Saudi Arabia’s. They produce oil in a different way here – they mine it. Although they do have some traditional oil-well production, mostly, it is mined! In the far north reaches of Alberta there are tremendous deposits of tar sands. The sands are saturated with gooey oil with the texture of tar. Years ago Exxon-Mobil became aware of the deposits and invested in the recovery of the oil. At the time it cost $16/barrel to produce oil from these deposits – far above the prevailing cost of conventional production. They made a commitment to continue their presence here with limited production. Today, with oil over $100/barrel, it is a windfall for Exxon-Mobil. It is extremely profitable so they have increased production. Workers are in short supply. It is said that a man (or woman) who is willing to work long hours, tolerate the extreme weather conditions and the remoteness of the area can easily make over $200,000 per year.

As Fred understands it, the recovery is quite simple. It is done in batches. Simply stated the recipe: in a large (very large) container of tar sands add super heated water and agitate. The hot water softens the oil and releases it from the sands. The result is a stratification of oil, water and sand. The oil can then be extracted and refined in conventional ways.

Rob Roy is a man’s man. He has traveled the world for his own business, reads widely for pleasure, spends time in the out-of-doors with his wife (they fish often) and has raised, with a big help from Brenda, three children to successful adulthood. In short, he has more than his share of life experiences. He told Fred of the deep admiration long term Albertans have for Texans. Perhaps it is as simple as the fact that both state and province are big in cattle and oil production. Perhaps it is the old west image for which each is noted. Maybe it is a more subtle connection.

Since the Trudeau era in Canada, all the public signs are in both French and English. Through out Canada these signs are present. Alberta has very little, if any, residents who speak exclusively French. Rob Roy says this is just one example of a far away government in the east of Canada dictating to the relatively sparsely populated western provinces. Albertans seems to have an attitude of “The government should get out of our lives.” This independent spirit may be the same spirit associated with the stereotypical Texas mystique.

For what ever reason, Albertans love Texans. As we shared a campfire, it was obvious, but unspoken, the unearned respect Rob Roy had for both Olivia and I merely because we are Texans. WOW!

Tuesday, July 28 saw us driving to the Frank Slide of 1903. Frank was a town and mine, when during the night a HUGE hunk of the mountain broke off and
slid down the mountain and up the other side crushing everything in its path. Fred has been wondering what would happen if a rock falls; now he knows.

Then we drove east to Head Smashed-In Buffalo Jump. Before Indians had horses they would hunt buffalo by driving a herd off a cliff. They did lots of planning so the jump would be successful. Then had all the work of butchering and preparing the meat.
The story of the name for this “jump” is an interesting one. According to information at the visitor’s center, a young brave was curious to see the carnage of a jump from the bottom of the cliff. He gained permission to stand in a recess at the bottom of the cliff during the jump. The brutality of a jump can’t be exaggerated. The violence is unimaginable. After the jump his lifeless body was discovered amid the piles of dead and near-dead buffalo. His skull was crushed. Thus the Indian name for the site became Head Smashed-In.
This visitor center was quite well done and gave a sense of living the event. There are more of these jump sites and depending on the Indians locations and the timing each were used.

From there we drove to Watertown Lakes and attempted to spend the night there, but the campground was full.
We did admire the Prince of Wales Hotel on a hill overlooking the lakes. We drove on to Belly Creek campground. It had no drinking water but was a place to spend the night. We visited with a family from Germany and one from Florida.

Thus ends our adventure into western Canada.

Love to all,
Fred & Olivia